D7: Ruacana - Kunene River Lodge (75km)

This map gives you an overview of our travels along the Kunene River - we decided to take three days to complete the route. This post covers the first day.

Afterwards we said to each other that we should have taken even longer to really be able to enjoy the vicinity and its offerings even more.

D7: Ruacana - Kunene River Lodge (75km)

Eha Lodge has a good camping site - running water, electricity and braai on grassed site; excellent ablutions.

We set off on our adventure along the Kunene River. We had good views of the Kunene river, the dam and the power plant which were defended by South Africa in the Angolan war.

This cutting exposed beautiful rocks ... 

However, we detoured to try our luck again with the Cinderella Waxbill - we only found some cattle peacefully grazing in the rivulet bed.

This Commiphora gave us much pleasure. 
It might well be the Blue-leaved Corkwood - but without leaves identification is difficult.

The name of the bar and shebeen tell a story ...

Once we had given up on finding the Cinderella Waxbill, we decided to look at the Ruacana Falls - you have to look carefully between the two men at the trickle of water which shows you where the falls are. Obviously we were there in the dry season.

At this T-junction, we turned towards Swartboois Drift.

We had met Mina, the caretaker of Hippo Camp (also known as .... a long Himba name) the previous day during our first birding expedition. She welcomed us to the camp site. After looking round, we decided that next time we would use her campsite.

This notice was displayed in the bathroom. 
Read it carefully!

On our way our Mina introduced us to this Himba maiden who was quite happy for us to take photos of her - we offered to pay her, which brought a smile to her face.

Soft leather which has been stretched 

along the edge makes an elegant skirt.

Is that what I look like??

The road directly next to the Kunene River 
is dry and dusty except for 
the odd crossing over tributaries such as the Oiva River.

The old and the new: a Himba lady washing clothes in the traditional way in the river vs. a young modern couple out for a day's drive along the Kunene.

There are several lodges and campsites along the banks of the Kunene - we tried to visit a few to get an idea of the options which are available.

The area is arid and the plants are all 
capable of surviving drought.

There are signs of farming activities, the odd homestead and cattle grazing next to the road in spite of the stones and harsh circumstances.

 An outcrop covered in yellow-golden grass.

Sesame bush/Soutbos which is one of the predominant bushes of the area.

A very unsettling sight: a massive Leadwood was being burned bit by bit. Why? 
The passing Himba did not speak English so we couldn't ask him why trees of such stature were being burned. This was not a charcoal-making process - merely powder white ash was left from the smouldering fire.

The next victim. 
Can you see where this massive Imberbe is being burned 
(left hand side behind the deserted Himba hut)?

The sun was dipping to the west when we arrived at our chosen camping site: Kunene River Lodge.

We found a lovely campsite on the banks of the river, however, the monkeys were a real nuisance! 


Once we had pitched our tent, 
we went to the deck for a sundowner and to enjoy the view.